Category Archive

One of the great advantages of working at Nature Travels is the regular opportunity to combine business with pleasure on visits to our local partner companies in Sweden. On this occasion I was heading for the tiny village of Undersåker in Jämtland to visit Tommy, a local dogsled guide in the area in and around the Vålådalen Nature Reserve who has been running dog sledding tours in the region for more than 20 years.

This was the first time that I had had the opportunity to take part in the full 5-day expedition Dogsled Adventure in Jämtland tour, and I was looking forward to the experience immensely. The adventure had already begun some weeks before the start of the trip, with a look through the pre-departure packing list and a number of shopping expeditions to hunt for missing essentials. Like many outdoor enthusiasts, I have something of a weakness for new gear and gizmos, and I was delighted to have a good excuse to update a few tired old pieces of kit and splash out on one or two things I’d been hankering after for some time. Along the way, I found some real bargains, including a terrific pair of Gore-Tex ski pants from the PDSA charity shop for £15 (which satisfied the demands of both my limited budget and eco-consumer conscience) and a great value alternative to the Buff multi-functional headwear. I’d had my eye on one of these for quite a while (and the discovery of a Windstopper version had sent me into paroxysms of avaricious yearning), but I just couldn’t bring myself to spend 19 quid on what was basically a stretchy scarf. I was delighted, then, when I found that Oswald Bailey do a version made by Trespass for half the price.

Laid out on the living room floor, my assembled packing seemed to take up a frightening amount of space – always the problem when planning for a winter trip – but with judicious planning accompanied by a great deal of groaning, swearing and jumping up and down, everything was finally shoe-horned into my long-suffering rucksack and ready for the off.

It was with a mix of excited anticipation and gnawing guilt that I abandoned my wife at an obscenely early hour on Valentine’s Day at Poole bus station to catch the National Express to Stansted. Not the most convenient airport for those of us on the south coast, Stansted is nevertheless currently the only airport in the UK offering a direct low-cost flight to Trondheim in Norway, from where it is only just over 2 hours across the border to Sweden by train to the start of the Dogsled Adventure in Jämtland tour.

Back in my youth, on my regular comings and goings between Edinburgh and the South West, I used to watch in open-mouthed amazement as National Express drivers berated passengers mercilessly, shouting in the ears of little old ladies, cursing blank-faced foreign tourists for their lack of comprehension. In the intervening years, I have watched these surly fellows be gradually replaced by a new generation of polite, soft-spoken, well-dressed driving professionals – marvellously efficient, but sadly less entertaining. I was both shocked and oddly nostalgic, then, when our driver turned out to be a die-hard member of the old guard, calling a young French passenger an “ignorant git”, warning us to fasten our seatbelts and hang on because “for those that understand English, I’m a s*** driver”, and sending a pair of young Asian girls scurrying off in panic with their enormous suitcases bouncing crazily behind them by joking to the waiting queue, “Anyone for Manchester?”

The rest of the journey was smooth and far less eventful, and after a restful night in Tommy’s guest cabin, I watched as he and Lena, our other guide for the tour, loaded 44 eager and insanely excited Alaskan Huskies into the truck. This was my first sight of the dogs that were to be our friends, companions and means of propulsion for the next five days. There is no doubt about it – Alaskan Huskies love to run, and they are superbly designed for the purpose. They came in a wide range of shapes, sizes and colours, some heavy-set with thick, shaggy coats, others lean and wiry, some with eyes of piercing blue, others a deep chocolate brown, but all with an athlete’s physique and faces alive with energy, intelligence and friendliness.

With the whole truck practically humming with collective excitement (how much coming from the dogs and how much from me it’s hard to say), we headed 40km up the snowy track towards Vålådalen tourist station, the start point for our dog sledding adventure. We left the dogs for a while to rendezvous with the guests, who were already gathered expectantly in reception. Of the six other participants in the experience, four were Nature Travels clients from the UK, and we were also joined by two young French guests who had been dog sledding in Canada before and were keen to try the Swedish version.

We began with a brief look at the map to see the likely route we would be taking during our dog sledding adventure, with our first objective being the cabins at Vålåstugan. From there to Helags, with its promise of showers and sauna (some of the guests got rather excited at the mention of the “s” words), where we would be staying for two nights, leaving our luggage at the station and running fast and light on a day-tour through the surrounding mountains. Our last stop would be the cabins at Gåsen, before the long downhill stretch back to Vålådalen.

With the basic tour description completed, Tommy went on to outline what to expect during a typical day’s dog sledding. “Ah – adventure, excitement, swooshing through endless white expanses of untouched wilderness, the wind in your hair and the cry of the dogs in your ears,” we thought. “Poo patrol”, said Tommy gravely, bringing us back down to earth with a bump, “and every night we must dig shelters for the dogs before we have dinner”. Ah well, we were sure there would be a bit of time for adventure and swooshing in there somewhere.

With the introductions over, we made our way down to the truck to collect our equipment and meet the dogs. It was remarkably mild for the time of year, just around freezing and snowing gently, and the mood was jovial as everyone changed into their winter boots and tried snowmobile overalls on for size, with frequent jibes about James Bond films and Nanook of the North as we appraised the dashing figures each of us cut in our new Arctic garb.

Then it was time to get down to business. By now the dogs had been unloaded from the truck and were standing patiently waiting to be harnessed. We huddled around one of the sleds as Tommy took us through the basics of handling the dog sled and harnessing the dogs. In particular we were given some important safety information, shown how to use the anchor and where to hang it safely out of harm’s way, and how to brake the sled when going downhill. Good braking is vital, both to prevent a spill and so that the sled does not overtake and injure the dogs. “Keep tension in the lines at all times”, said Tommy, “…and don’t let go!” he added with a wry smile. By this time the dogs had begun to sense what was going to happen next and the noise level was rising, and we strained to catch Tommy’s final words of wisdom before fanning out to find our own sleds.

We were each given a card with the names of our dogs, and with Tommy and Lena’s help in identifying our charges, we set about the business of harnessing them according to the positions on the card. Huskies have strong individual personalities and, like people, different strengths and abilities. Some dogs like to lead and think, others to follow and pull, and the teams had been chosen carefully to ensure that each dog was in its proper place. First the lead dogs are harnessed, with a “Dead Man’s Hand” staked out in front to keep the team straight and prevent tangles. The technique for harnessing is very simple, and though I still managed a twist or two and needed a friendly word of advice from Lena, before long all the teams were in place.

While quiet and remarkably well-behaved when at rest, when harnessed up and waiting for the off, the dogs go absolutely berserk, straining against the anchored sleds and producing a deafening cacophony of barking, howling and whining. This moment of anticipation before the anchors were released and we surged forward was to be one of the most enduring images of the whole dog sledding experience for me, an intensely uplifting sensation that sent my heart racing and blood pounding. You cannot help but be swept along in the wave of primal energy and longing that is produced by 44 four-legged pulling machines in full cry, and those few seconds as we waited for the signal to release the brakes held a magical quality for me, when the modern world seemed a distant memory and life was filled with infinite possibility.

As we upped anchors and took our feet off the brakes, our teams leapt forward as one and the sleds took off in a whirl of flying fur and snow. The track dipped sharply downwards almost immediately and we stabbed in alarm at the brakes, but apart from one minor spill we all negotiated this first obstacle successfully and were on our way – masters and mistresses of our very own dogsled team! Somewhat overawed by the whole thing at first, over the next few kilometres I really felt I was getting the hang of it, and hands that had been desperately holding on to the sled for dear life just a few minutes before soon lay relaxed and nonchalant, guiding the sled smoothly and confidently through the twists and turns of the track as we headed upwards through the birch forest.

I began to feel elated, proud of my new-found skills and my rapid mastery of dog sledding technique. As my dogs pulled for all they were worth I had time to take in some of the beauty and silence of the forest, and turned my head to catch a suggestion of the majestic shapes of the surrounding mountains looming through the low cloud. But pride comes, of course, before a fall, and a few seconds later the world went suddenly and completely white as I pitched head-first into a deep snowdrift and disappeared in a puff of powder. I emerged to see my sled on its side and disappearing into the distance, pulled forward at a slower but still impressive pace by the unrelenting power of my dogs. Two legs are considerably less efficient than four when it comes to running in snow, especially when they are attached to a slightly paunchy 37-year-old body and encased in a thick set of padded overalls, and it took me what seemed like an eternity before I caught up with my sled, panting, sweating, and with little stars bursting in front of my eyes. Even with the added encumbrance of the sled on its side, my dedicated team of canine pullers had seemed to have no problem charging up the hill and putting an impressive distance between us, even before I had had time to struggle to my feet and set off in pursuit, with my cries of “Stop!! For God’s sake stop!!” falling on eight deaf, or perhaps just indifferent, ears.

“Still, I’ve learned my lesson”, I thought, as I clambered awkwardly aboard and set off once more, vowing not to get so distracted by the tempting beauty around me again. Indeed, that was to be my only fall of the whole trip, and by the end of the tour five days later I would have good reason to be justifiably proud of my new skills of balance and control, but for now I was content just to stay on my feet and count myself lucky that I was nursing nothing worse than a bruised ego.

Much of the Vålådalen Nature Reserve through which we were travelling has a restriction on snowmobiles, which makes it possible to enjoy the tranquility of this lovely area undisturbed. Though we were not scheduled to enter the restricted area until the following day, when we would be penetrating deeper and higher into the reserve, we neither saw nor heard a single scooter during our trip up to Vålåstugan, our only fellow travellers a hardy-looking group of ski tourers out on a winter camping expedition. As we raced ever upwards, the dogs pulled tirelessly, taking occasional bites of snow from the track and even going to the loo on the move.

When finally we stopped for a short break, the air was alive with exclamations of “Wow!”, “That was amazing!”, “This is beautiful!” and occasionally “Ooh my aching legs!”, and the sun made a welcome appearance through the clouds as we surveyed the ascent we had made and the lie of the land behind us, sipping coffee from our thermoses and attacking the proffered sandwiches as if we hadn’t eaten for days. The dogs took the opportunity to roll in the snow to cool down or lie panting, tongues lolling with great clouds of breath hanging in the crisp air.

Just the sound of a thermos top being screwed back on or the rasp of a sled pocket zip closing seemed to be enough to signal to the dogs that we would be setting off again shortly, and once more the teams erupted in a frenzy of yelps and barks. A few kilometres later, we rounded the corner to see the welcoming low huddle of buildings at Vålåstugan winking at us through the afternoon sunshine. Almost immediately, our thoughts turned to cosy fireside chats, the crackle and spit of dinner cooking on the stove, and the evening of cheerful camaraderie that lay ahead.

But it would be a while before we settled down to enjoy such creature comforts – for now, the dogs came first and their needs must be attended to before we ourselves could be fed and watered. As we waited in turn to park our sleds, the wind picked up noticeably behind us and the clouds rolled in, obscuring our view of the mountains, driving snow down our collars and chilling our faces, giving us a taste of the approaching weather front that we had stayed just ahead of all afternoon.

While we were to be spending the night wrapped up cosy and warm in the mountain cabins, the dogs would be sleeping outside, and it was important that adequate preparations be made to shelter them from the worst of the weather. First of all, static lines were drawn between stakes and the dogs clipped on at intervals of a couple of metres, each section of line with its own individual piece of cable to allow the dogs ample room to move around.

Once the dogs had been unharnessed and clipped on to their static lines, we moved the sleds together and faced them downwind to prevent them being lost in snowdrifts overnight (a very real problem – Tommy told us later that he has spent hours searching for sleds buried completely in the snow after a storm!). Then it was time for our first taste of snow-shelter digging, which was to be come an essential part of the dog sledding experience and a major part of our dog-care duties over the coming days. By this time the wind had really picked up, and for the next hour or so we struggled with our snow shovels against horizontal snow and driving winds of up to 22mps (about 50mph) to build walls of snow sufficient to protect the dogs through the approaching night. Though the still air temperature was still very mild (around -2), wind of this strength drops the actual temperature to around -20. But with the exertion of digging the snow and packing it to make the walls there was little chance of anyone getting cold!

At the end of an exhausting but strangely rewarding hour battling the elements, we stood back to survey our handiwork. The dogs looked distinctly unimpressed with our efforts, some even jumping over the walls to lie on the windward side, their ears flapping as they turned their faces full into the wind, but we knew at least that we had done our best and that shelter would be there for those that wanted it. It seemed only right to test one of our snug-looking creations for myself, and so I curled up to try my hole out for size. It did indeed make a surprising difference to huddle down behind the wall of snow, though the prospect of a warm bed inside was a still good deal more inviting.

As we mopped our brows and congratulated ourselves on our fortitude and stamina, Tommy and Lena called us over with the cry of “Food time!”. “Excellent”, I thought, “I’m starving.” But of course they meant the dogs. They showed us what was on the canine menu for the evening – a veritable banquet of dried food mixed with water followed by a hunk of frozen meat of unknown and rather suspect-looking origin. Dutifully we held out the bowls while Tommy and Lena slopped in the food and, though it didn’t look too appetising to us, we assumed that after their exertions the dogs would be ravenous, falling upon the food like a pack of hungry, well, dogs. We were therefore astonished when most of the dogs looked at the food disdainfully before turning their backs in a huff and curling up in the snow, while others licked at it listlessly or deliberately emptied out the water by tipping the bowls over to pick the dried food off the snow.

“This is often a problem,” explained Tommy, his brow furrowed with concern. “In bad weather the dogs don’t like to eat. We really need them to drink as well, which is why they need the water from the bowls – they don’t get enough water just from eating snow.” And muttering to himself about the vagaries of the mountain climate and canine mood swings, he shuffled off to redistribute the untouched bowls to other dogs.

“Well”, we thought, “they’re bound to like the meat at least.” But no, as the hunks of frozen meat were hacked up with an axe and handed out, once again the dogs sniffed at them hautily or quickly buried them in the snow before lying down in disgust.

There was one more task to accomplish in the gathering darkness before we could retire to the warmth of the cabin. Lena produced a bag of doggy coats and we went around covering the more lightly-built dogs or those with the thinnest fur. Alaskan Huskies are incredibly hardy animals, but even a husky gets cold sometimes, and in the evening ahead Tommy and Lena were to make regular excursions out into the storm to check on the welfare of the dogs, even bringing one or two inside occasionally to warm up.

At long last, our duties were completed and we retired to the steaming interior of the cabin. Thanks to the efforts of the warden, who had been anticipating our arrival, the fire had been lit many hours before and the cabin was a roasting 23 degrees. We stripped off our many layers and suspended our icy hats and gloves above the fire before flopping gratefully down around the table to bask in the unexpected warmth.

The evening passed in a haze of gentle conversation and laughter, punctuated every hour or so by one or other of us deciding they could hold out no longer and it was time to get togged up for an expedition to the toilet. And an expedition it was – the wind was unrelenting and it took all our strength just to open the door to the cabin. We were propelled by the wind at our backs across a carpet of snow to the toilet block, where even the thick doors and solid Swedish construction could not prevent icy drafts whistling into the most private places. When we opened the door to brave the trip back, the cabin was just a hazy outline barely visible through the driving snow, and though a distance of just 30m or so, it was not hard to imagine yourself as an intrepid Arctic explorer struggling valiantly back to base across the frozen wastes.

Dinner, when it was finally time for us to eat, was well worth the wait, and before long our bellies had been filled to bursting with a hearty meal of reindeer meat and mashed potatoes. This was the first of many tasty meals that Tommy was to prepare for us over the coming days – perhaps it was the mountain setting and expedition ambience, the drama of the howling storm outside, or just our ravenous hunger after the day’s adventures, but we all agreed that mashed potato had never tasted so good.

By the time 9pm rolled around (though it felt like midnight at least), all of us were yawning and looking longingly towards our beds. As I slipped into my sleeping sheet, pulled over the duvet and lay back to listen to the wind still racing around the corners of the cabin, a jumble of impressions and thoughts swirled through my head – the myriad sights, sounds, and powerful emotions of my first day dog sledding in the mountains of Jämtland.

Look out for the next instalment, as we go in search of buried sleds and watch the skies anxiously for signs of sunshine…

Best regards

The Nature Travels Team

Read part 2

The article above describes the first day of this February’s Dogsled Adventure in Jämtland, a 7-day adventure holiday with 5 days’ dog sledding in the mountain wilderness of western Sweden. We have limited spaces still remaining for some of our dog sledding tours in Sweden in March and April 2008. Please contact us for details or see our full range of dog sledding holidays in Sweden at www.naturetravels.co.uk/category-dog-sledding.htm.

What is the Swedish Right of Public Access?

Allmansrätten, or “Every Man’s Right”, is an important part of Swedish cultural heritage, a unique freedom of access to Sweden’s countryside and wild places, and one of the things which makes Sweden such an attractive destination for the outdoor enthusiast.

Where does the Swedish Right of Public Access come from?

The origins of the Right date back to the local laws and customs of the Middle Ages, and it is of enormous importance in Sweden both to individuals and to groups, clubs and tour operators (such as ourselves). Clubs and companies are permitted to take advantage of the Right of Public Access when conducting activities in the Swedish countryside, although in essence the Right is limited to individuals.

What is its general principle?

The Right of Public Access has a number of parts, which are discussed in more detail below, but in essence it can be summed up in the phrase “Do not disturb, do not destroy”. With the considerable freedom and right to roam afforded by Allmansrätten comes the burden of care and responsibility, and the principles of the Right are there both for the enjoyment of outdoor activities in Sweden and for the protection of its rich flora and fauna.

Why is it necessary?

With a growing global population and increased pressure on natural areas everywhere for recreational purposes, the principles of the Right of Public Access are more important than ever, providing an important framework for the sustainable enjoyment of Sweden’s countryside and wilderness areas. If these areas are used without care or respect, irreparable damage can occur to the natural environment, which may include:

- litter and toilet waster

- erosion of paths and soil

- depletion of natural resources such as wood for fire making

- damage to fragile ecosystems and removal of rare or vulnerable species

What controls are there to ensure that companies follow the rules?

The Swedish Environmental Code requires organises of outdoor activities in the countryside to demonstrate a knowledge of and respect for the natural environment of the area in which their activities take place. They are also obliged to inform participants in their experiences of the principles of the Right of Public Access and how the natural environment of the area can be conserved and protected.

At Nature Travels, we work exclusively with small-scale partner companies in Sweden. All these companies are members of the Swedish Ecotourism Society and most have passed through a strict quality-control system to receive a quality mark for their high standard of environmental commitment. Among the many criteria that must be met for certification, they must provide a detailed analysis of how their activities impact the local environment and what measures they have to manage this impact. For more details on this, please see our previous blog article on Ecotourism FAQs.

On any of the experience pages on our website at www.naturetravels.co.uk, you will see a button near the top of the page labelled “Full Details”. This link opens a PDF file giving further information on the experience, and in each file you will find a section titled “Common Sense and the Right of Public Access”. If you have any questions about how this applies to your chosen experience, please don’t hesitate to ask and we will be happy to discuss it with you.

Can I walk or ski anywhere in Sweden?

Within certain guidelines, yes. Following the principle of “Do not disturb, do not destroy”, you may not walk or ski on cultivated ground or in the grounds around someone’s house. There are no limits or distances defined in law, but people engaged in outdoor activities in Sweden are required to exercise common sense and consideration. For example, a newly-planted section of a forestry plantation would also be considered “off-limits”, even though it may not be seen as cultivated ground as such. Common sense also allows you to interpret the Right sensibly – you should not cross a crop field where crops are growing, but if the ground is hard and snow-covered in winter, there is no reason why you should not be allowed to cross.

What about cycling?

The Right of Public Access also allows great freedom for cycling in Sweden. Again, you must use your discretion to judge whether or not your presence will disturb or destroy, but you are allowed access to all private roads, and it is not permitted for a landowner to put up a sign prohibiting you from cycling on the road or path.

You should ensure that you choose the correct cycling style to suit the area and the environment. Avoid places or times or weather conditions when your tyres could cause erosion, keep off fragile areas such as those covered in moss or lichen, and if cycling on a trail intended for hikers or joggers, cycle slowly and show consideration for other uses of the paths, giving way to joggers and walkers.

There are exceptions to the freedoms afforded to the cyclist in Sweden. Local authorities may decide to introduce “No Cycling” restrictions on some paths, while inside National Parks and other protected areas, cycling may be banned completely.

Can I ride a horse in Sweden?

Again, horse riding in Sweden is permitted in most areas under the Right of Public Access. Because of the great potential for riders to damage ground and cause erosion, there are a number of things you should bear in mind when riding your horse in Sweden.

You should avoid trails specially intended for hikers, joggers or skiers and avoid sensitive ground such as bogland or moss-covered areas. You should also be careful not to damage young trees and be especially cautious when the ground is wet around spring and autumn. If riding in the same area on a regular basis, it is advisable to ask for permission from the local landowner. You should also avoid cultivated ground and the grounds of houses as you would if walking or cycling.

Unlike for cyclists, landowners can erect a “No Riding” sign in areas where there is high risk of damage to the ground. Local authorities and National Parks and nature reserves may also have their own restrictions.

Can I fish without a licence in Sweden?

No, not generally. As a non-Swedish citizen, you are required to have a licence unless fishing with hand-gear in public waters. In all other cases, you must obtain a fishing permit. Fishing is prohibited within 100m of stationary fishing equipment and fish farms. You are permitted to fish from a private jetty on an occasional basis (though not one next to someone’s house), but must of course give priority to the owner of the jetty if they require access for a boat, etc.

Can I pick mushrooms, berries and flowers in Sweden?

One of the great joys of being out in the forests of Sweden is the rich carpets of flowers and berries which cover the forest floor, and the wide variety of mushrooms available at different times of year. Looking for and gathering this forest bounty is a popular activity for Swedes and visitors alike. If you are particularly interested in this forest pastime, you may wish to take a look at our Autumn Forest Gold experience.

You are permitted to pick flowers, berries and mushrooms for private use, but must avoid protected species and should also use your discretion for other fragile species which may not yet be formally protected. There may be local restrictions in place if a particular species is vulnerable in that area. Protection for plants and animals is usually absolute – you are not permitted to disturb them in any way, even within the grounds of your house. In other cases, protected may be partial, so that certain flowers can be picked for private use, but not dug up by the roots. If a property is abandoned and there are no standing buildings, it is permitted for you to collect fruit, e.g. apples, raspberries, gooseberries, etc. from the abandoned orchard.

Live wood is also protected, and you may not chop wood from a growing tree to make a fire or otherwise cause damage to it (e.g. by carving in the bark).

As with many other aspects of the Swedish Right of Public Access, National Parks and protected areas may have their own restrictions on the collection of berries, flowers and mushrooms.

Can I take my dog on holiday to Sweden?

Many Swedes own dogs themselves, and dogs are generally very welcome in Sweden. There are certain restrictions designed to protect wild animals during the most vulnerable times of the year and to prevent harm to livestock.

Between 1^st March and 20^th August, it is important that dogs are not allowed to run loose in the countryside. In practice, this means that dogs should be kept on a lead in areas where there are wild animals, livestock or game. Outside this period, dogs should be kept under close control, and if you are in an area which practices reindeer husbandry, dogs not used for reindeer herding must be on a lead at all times.

Once again, National Parks and other protected areas will have their own regulations, and in some National Park areas dogs are prohibited.

If you would like to take your dog on holiday to Sweden, Nature Travels offers a number of dog-friendly experiences which are ideal for dog owners. Please contact us for details. You should be aware that Sweden that the regulations for bringing a dog into Sweden are usually tighter than for other EU countries. Please don’t hesitate to contact us for advice or assistance.

Can I light camp fires in Sweden?

Yes, lighting fires is permitted under the Right of Public Access, but you must follow certain precautions to minimise damage and the risk of an uncontrolled fire.

Many people do not think of Sweden as a hot country, but in fact during the summer, the forests and heathlands can become extremely dry and large forest fires are a very real danger.

You must site your fire whether there is no risk of the fire spreading and where the fire will not cause damage, such as on sandy ground or gravel. Avoid mossy and peat-bog areas, as the fire is likely to spread and can also burn underground unnoticed long after you have left. You should also not light your fire next to a rock, as this can crack and scar the rock. Wet stones may crack and even explode when heated. You are permitted to collect cones, fallen branches and twigs for your fire, but must not gather live wood or use fallen trees. Dead trees are extremely valuable habitats for wildlife and must be left intact.

At times where there is a high risk of fire, a ban may be imposed by the local authority. In this case, you are not allowed to light fires, but may still use designated grill spots and a camping stove with care.

Don’t forget that National Parks and nature reserves in Sweden may have their own regulations regarding camp fires.

I’ve heard that you can camp wild anywhere in Sweden. Is this true?

Up to a point, yes. The freedom to camp wild is one of the great joys of an outdoor holiday in Sweden. You should not pitch your tent on farmland or near a house, and stays in any one location are limited to a night or two.

Groups of friends pitching two or three tents do not need to obtain permission from the landowner, but as always, you must respect the privacy of anyone living nearby and take care not to damage the natural environment.

Generally, a good rule of thumb is to ensure that you pitch your tent out of site of people’s houses and do not stay more than two nights in the same spot. Don’t forget to take all your litter away with you (including food scraps –orange peel, for example, can take many years to degrade naturally!). If no other option exists, make sure you bury your toilet waste properly. Choose a spot at least 50m from houses, camping spots, water sources, etc. Dig a hole 15cm deep for your waste and then fill in soil on top. Do not bury non-degradable items such as children’s nappies or female sanitary products.

Can I recycle my rubbish in Sweden?

Yes, most areas of Sweden have very good facilities for recycling. In addition to the standard containers for glass, paper and cans common in the UK, many small towns or village supermarkets will also have stations to recycle batteries and plastics. If you buy drinks in aluminium cans or plastic bottles (“PET-flaskor” in Swedish), a few kronor of the price you pay will be a deposit, or “Pant”. Many shops will have a station near the entrance where you can return these bottles and reclaim your deposit. Just ask the shop assistant for help. If you want to recycle your cans, be careful not to crush them, as the deposit machines will only accept non-crushed ones.

I’d like to take my caravan or motor-home to Sweden. What freedoms will I have?

Along public roads, you may stay for 24 hours in lay-bys and designated public parking areas, or until the next weekday at weekends or on public holidays. You must not drive your vehicle off-road, e.g. to park in a field or on a beach.

What about sailing, boating and swimming in Sweden?

As with other aspects of the Swedish Right of Public Access, provided you show suitable care and consideration, a great deal of freedom is allowed. You should ensure you are aware of local regulations which apply to you and demonstrate good seamanship at all times.

It is permitted to temporarily moor a boat off the shore, to swim, to cast anchor and to go ashore, as long as you are not within the grounds of a private house or in a protected natural area. In the same way that you should not camp in the same spot for more than two nights, you should not moor your boat in the same place for more than two nights before moving on.

Be especially careful around bird or seal sanctuaries, where you are not permitted to go ashore. Make sure you look for the signs for advice in local areas.

A final thought…

The Swedish Right of Public Access is a wonderful cultural institution, providing unique freedoms to Swedish citizens and visitors alike. As long as its principles are respected, and common sense exercised at all times when judging what is or is not possible, there is no reason why everyone should not continue to enjoy these freedoms long into the future. With increasing pressure on all our natural areas and the rise in popularity of outdoor recreation, it is now more important than ever that its ideas of fair and sustainable use of the countryside are observed. If we “Do not disturb, do not destroy”, the valuable natural environment of this vast and beautiful country can be enjoyed by all for many years to come.

Best regards

The Nature Travels Team

Many of the outdoor holidays in Sweden offered by Nature Travels include wild camping, such as our canoe tours, sea kayaking experiences, wilderness hiking tours and our Go Camping by Dogsled and Ice Fishing and Dog Sledding experiences.

Sweden’s vast forests and rolling mountains are home to a huge diversity of animals, few as elusive and mysterious as the Brown Bear, perhaps the most magical of Sweden’s Big Five predators and a timeless symbol of the wild.

What kind of bears are there in Sweden?

The bears which inhabit the forests and mountains of Sweden are Brown Bears, Ursus arctos. In the wild, a male can weigh as much as 350 kg and a female up to 240 kg.

Are there any polar bears in Sweden?

No! The nearest polar bears are in Spitsbergen in Norway, almost 1000 miles north of Stockholm.

How many Brown Bears are there in Sweden?

The Brown Bear is a shy, secretive animal, and very rarely seen. Most Swedes, even those living in the areas most densely inhabited by bears, will go their whole lives without ever seeing one in the wild. Population estimates are therefore extremely difficult. However, there are a number of ongoing research projects aiming to better understand the Swedish Brown Bear and plan effectively for its conservation and management. A 2004 study by the Scandinavian Brown Bear Research Project put the Swedish population at somewhere between 1635 and 2840 individuals, with an annual rise in population of 4.7%.

Which parts of Sweden have Brown Bears?

Brown bears are widely distributed across the northern half of the country, with particular concentrations in certain areas. There is some evidence to suggest that their range is increasing. The Scandinavian Brown Bear Research Project survey in 2004 yielded the following distribution data:

What do Brown Bears eat?

Brown bears are omnivorous – they eat a wide range of foods from berries to bees to voles. Brown Bears may also hunt and catch larger animals, including moose. In the summer, their main food consists of ants, which they dig up from the large anthills found in the forests. They also eat the roots, shoots and buds of a number of plants.

Do Swedish Brown Bears hibernate?

Yes. During the autumn, Brown Bears fatten up on the raspberries, crowberries, cloudberries and blueberries which carpet the Swedish forest floor in preparation for hibernation. A good year for berries is also a good year for bears! Once they have built up sufficient fat reserves to see them through the long cold winter ahead, they then collect moss and twigs to make their hibernation den, which may be in a disused anthill or perhaps a spot at the foot of a large fir tree.

When do Brown Bears have their cubs?

Brown Bear cubs are born in the den during the winter, in litters of 1-4. Though naked, blind and helpless when they are born (weighing just 300-400g), they grow quickly on a diet of rich milk and by the time they are 6 months old are ready to leave their mother and make a life for themselves.

Are Brown Bears hunted in Sweden?

In the past, bear hunting was common, but today the Brown Bear is a protected species in Sweden, though licences can be granted to hunt particular individuals.

What should I do if I meet a Brown Bear in Sweden?

That depends on where you are (and where the bear is!) when you see it. If you are in a car or other vehicle, then simply relax and count yourself incredibly lucky that you are enjoying a rare and privileged glimpse into the life of Sweden’s largest predator.

Bear cubs are irresistably cute, but if you see a cub, resist the urge to approach it or try to take photos – the protective mother will be close by and may not understand your friendly intentions!

If you are camping in an area where there are bears, don’t leave food waste around your campsite. Bears have a keen sense of smell and it is important that Sweden’s bears remain shy and wild – associating the presence of humans with food would be catastrophic for Swedish bears and potentially dangerous for campers.

Brown Bears mate between May and June, and during this period bears are active both at night and during daylight hours. Young males are searching for females at this time and cover long distances in their search, while last year’s cubs are making their first independent forays into the world.

Young bears, like all young animals, are very curious creatures, and may not have learnt to be as wary of danger as adult bears. Make sure they notice you by talking loudly, and then slowly withdraw from the area.

There is a very slim chance you may meet a bear if you are out in the forest picking berries (as the bears love berries too!), though the chances are that they will have heard or smelt you and decided to leave long before you arrive. If not, once again, talk loudly to show your presence and leave the area slowly.

If you find a bear at rest or perhaps eating a kill, it is important that the bear does not perceive you as a threat to its food. Stand as tall as you can, speak loudly and retrace your steps slowly. Do not run.

Almost all dangerous incidents with bears happen with wounded animals (for example, when a hunter has accidentally encountered a bear whilst out hunting for elk and shot at the animal). Like any animal, fear and pain will make it aggressive. Contrary to the images in films, standing on hind legs is not an aggressive posture for a bear. It simply allows the bear to have a better view of the surroundings, and to confirm what their senses of smell and hearing have told them.

If the bear starts to come towards you, then it has perceived your presence as a threat. It may be protecting a cub, or perhaps a carcass nearby. Perhaps the bear had no opportunity to hide when you approached or has just emerged from its hibernation den. If you have a dog with you, the dog may have provoked the bear. Talk loudly and leave slowly, but do not hit or threaten the bear, and do not run.

Whatever the reason for the bear’s approach, an attack is unlikely – the bear is probably just “faking”. Confrontation for any wild animal is a dangerous thing, as it may result in fatal injury, and many animals, including bears, gorillas and elephants, employ this tactic of “fake” charges to avoid the need for a real fight.

In the very unlikely event that you are attacked by a bear, try to distract its attention away from the attack. Place an object (such as a rucksack or fishing equipment) between you and the animal. If this fails, lie down on the ground in a foetal position or face down on your stomach. Cover your neck with your hands and protect your head, and “play dead”. Making yourself as small as you can and behaving as passively as possible will help to persuade the bear that you are not a threat.

What Brown Bear signs can I look out for?

In some areas you have a good chance of seeing signs that bears are sharing the forest world with you. You may be lucky enough to see their tracks in mud or snow, or perhaps to see hair caught on fencing or scratch marks on a tree trunk.

There is no reason to be afraid of meeting a bear when you are out canoeing, hiking or wild camping in Sweden – the chances of encountering a Brown Bear in Sweden are extremely low. In the whole of Scandinavia, there have been only four known cases in the last 100 years where a human has been killed by a Brown Bear.

So make the most of the peace and tranquility of Swedish vast tracts of wilderness, and enjoy the uplifting sensation that you may be travelling through the homeland of one of the world’s most fascinating and much misunderstood creatures – the Brown Bear!

Best regards

The Nature Travels Team

If you are travelling to the forest farm for either our Summer Fun on a Forest Farm or Winter Wonderland on a Forest Farm experiences, you may like to visit the nearby Järvzoo, which is home to a wide range of Swedish wildlife, including Brown Bears, with large enclosures and semi-natural surroundings. Visitors use a walkway to move through the park which takes you above the animals, allowing excellent views unencumbered by fencing and wonderful photo opportunities.

We also offer dedicated wildlife experiences giving you intimate encounters with two of Sweden’s other elusive forest dwellers, the wolf and the moose. For further details please see Elk Safari Adventure and Howling with Wolves.

Travelling through Sweden on a cold winter’s day, you may well spot a succession of lone figures perched incongruously out in the middle of a lake, surrounded on all sides by a huge empty expanse of glassy ice, clutching a tiny fishing rod in one hand while gazing hopefully down a small round hole. You may be forgiven for thinking that these strange displaced anglers, levitating as if by magic above the watery depths beneath, are some frozen relic from a peaceful summer fishing trip gone horribly wrong, perhaps caught in some freak snowstorm and preserved for eternity (or at least until the spring melt) in the timeless pose of the expectant fisherman.

But no, these hunched adventurers are in entirely sound mind and exactly where they would wish to be. Though largely unknown in the UK and other less wintry climes, ice fishing is a popular way to spend a winter’s afternoon across much of Sweden, and has to be one of the most peaceful and even meditative ways to enjoy the beauty of the frozen winter landscape.

To go ice fishing, it is of course necessary to have some specialised equipment not in the normal arsenal of the summer angler. Firstly, you will need an ice saw or ice drill to make your hole (ice drills are fearsome-looking contraptions but very simple to use, resembling a traditional DIY manual drill but of mad-scientist proportions). Though it is possible to go ice fishing with spears (as you might imagine the Inuit doing), in Sweden most people fish with small, light fishing rods. Popular fish to go for include trout, salmon, pike, perch, grayling or the delicious Arctic char.

Ice fishing, while an excellent way of communing with nature and appreciating the grandeur and silence of the Swedish winter world, is not without its dangers. Though the ice beneath you may well be several feet thick in many places, in others it may be deceptively thin, and it is important to be aware of local conditions and respectful of potential hazards. For this reason, the services of an experienced and knowledgeable guide are essential – not only will they be able to advise on the best places to fish and increase your chance of a good catch, but they will know where you can fish in safety. In the unlikely event that someone should fall through the ice, they will also know how to get them out!

If a dedicated ice fishing holiday sounds just a little too relaxing, our Ice Fishing and Dog Sledding expedition combines the thrills of a dog sledding holiday with the gentle pleasures of a few hours’ ice fishing. With your base in a traditional teepee, to which you return each night to recount your stories of “the one that got away” and cook your catch over the wood-burning stove, you head out each day to try your luck at various fishing spots on both sides of the Swedish/Norwegian border. This tour takes place in late April/early May, when the low temperatures and shorter days of winter are giving way to the warming sunshine and extended daylight of spring.

Whether you are a committed fisherman or have never picked up a fishing rod before, ice fishing offers a unique way to engage with the glorious quiet and sense of calm that typifies a Swedish winter. As the song says, “Gone fishin’, instead of just a-wishin’……”

Best regards

The Nature Travels Team

If you prefer to be out on the ice without a fishing rod in your hand, you may also be interested in our Ice Skating on Natural Ice experience.

Cross country skiing is a great way to enjoy the peace and tranquility of the winter landscape and escape the clamour and queues of the pistes. Your cross-country skis can truly take you “away-from-it-all” into a silent world, whether you choose to ski over mountain plains with wide horizons or on forests trails through avenues of trees laden with new-fallen snow.

What equipment do I need to go cross country skiing?

Cross country skis are longer and narrower than downhill skis. They distribute the skier’s weight more evenly over the snow and make it possible to move more smoothly. Usually, skis will be about 2 metres long depending on the height and weight of the skier.

You will also need ski poles, which are longer and usually lighter than downhill poles and have a pointed end to make it easier to penetrate the snow.

Cross country ski boots are also very different from downhill boots, (lighter and much more comfortable!). The binding is fixed only at the toe, leaving the heel free.

Photo: Anders Dahlin Naturfoto

What different cross country skiing techniques are there?

There are basically two techniques, the “classic” technique where you slide one ski in front of the other, or the “skating” technique which, like ice skating, moves you forward in a V-shape. Of these, the classic technique is probably the easiest for beginners.

What’s involved in the classic technique of cross country skiing?

This technique is used when there are prepared trails with grooves that have been cut into the snow. The basic component of this technique is the “diagonal stride”, which is like a combination of running and gliding. This is the basic technique for beginners to move along flat ground, though more experienced skiers can also move uphill in this way. Less experienced skiers can climb inclines using the “herring bone” technique, moving uphill by placing the skies diagonally one after the other (as beginner downhill skiers are taught). When going downhill, assume a tuck position similar to downhill skiing.

Photo: Anders Dahlin Naturfoto

What’s involved in the skating technique of cross country skiing?

For those used to ice skating, this technique may be easier to learn than the classic technique. Skating trails are often made alongside the grooves for classic trails, allowing both kinds of technique to be practised on a particular route.

When skating, the skier pushes one ski outward, with the inside edge of the ski against the snow. It is important to transfer you weight effectively from one ski to the other as you skate along.

Is cross country skiing difficult to learn?

No. Because you are travelling on flat or nearly flat ground for much of the time, cross country skiing does not have the “fear factor” of learning to ski downhill. You may feel unsteady for a while, but most people find that they gain confidence quickly and the efficiency and grace of their technique improves rapidly. It can be difficult to maintain control when going downhill at first, especially in the prepared grooves, but again, most people develop their skills quickly in this area. For the less confident, you can always transfer to the skating track and use a “snowplough” position when going downhill.

Photo: Anders Dahlin Naturfoto

One of the great attractions of cross country skiing is that you can make your tour as challenging or as relaxing as you wish, and the sport is ideal for all ages, accessible to anyone in moderately good health. There is no hurry, it is not a race (unless you want it to be!), and if you wish to take your time and ski along slowly through the forest deep in conversation with a friend, then the choice is yours! What’s more, you will be in no danger of being knocked down by a speeding snowboarder coming up behind you!

At the other end of the scale, cross country skiing can be an extremely physical and demanding sport. In fact, it is known as the most demanding of endurance sports, as the movements burn the highest number of calories per hour (making it an effective and fun way to lose weight or stay in shape!). As with swimming and rowing, all the major muscle groups are exercised when cross country skiing.

Is cross country skiing more environmentally friendly than downhill skiing?

Yes, for a number of reasons. There are no pistes, lift systems, etc, required, so the impact on the environment is substantially reduced. Many mountain areas worldwide are now at risk because of the increased pressure from downhill skiing. Habitat is destroyed to make way for the pistes and infrastructure, plant life is damaged by snow compaction, artificial snow-making machines are energy-hungry and contribute to climate change (the very problem which may have caused the absence of snow!), and destabilisation of the hillsides can lead to an increased risk of avalanche. For a more detailed discussion of this issue, please see our previous blog article “To ski or not to ski?”.

Photo: Anders Dahlin Naturfoto

What other advantages does cross country skiing have over downhill skiing?

Cross country skiing is a much quieter, close-to-nature experience. It is accessible for people of all ages and you do not need to be particularly fit or strong. There is a far smaller risk of injury, and there are no lift passes to buy!

Is Sweden a good country to go cross country skiing?

One of the best! There are thousands of kilometres of prepared trails and the sport is very popular with Swedes. Many older people in Sweden use it as a way to keep fit in the winter months, while children go skiing in the surrounding forests as part of school sports. Sweden has one of the world’s most famous cross country ski events, the Vasaloppet, which takes place every winter, a kind of London Marathon for skiers (see our past blog article on the Vasaloppet race). The town of Torsby in Värmland, the region where our canoe tours take place, has the world’s largest indoor cross country ski trail, making it possible to enjoy cross country skiing at any time of year!

Photo: Anders Dahlin Naturfoto

Where can I go cross country skiing in Sweden?

Nature Travels offers a wide variety of cross country ski experiences in Sweden suitable both for beginners and more experienced skiers seeking a challenge. We have experiences specially tailored for solo travellers or families with young children. If you would like a dedicated cross country skiing holiday, please see our range of experiences on our website at www.naturetravels.co.uk/category-cross-country-skiing.htm. If you would like a more general “winter activity” holiday with the option to try out some cross country skiing during your stay, you may be interested in the following experiences:

Winter Wonderland on a Forest Farm
Log Cabin Escape in Värmland
Winter Weeks in the Mountains

Photo: Anders Dahlin Naturfoto

If you’re a beginner who has never skied before, you should definitely give cross country skiing a go. If you’re a committed downhill skier who has never tried cross country, why not do something a little different on your ski holiday this year? Once you’ve caught the bug, you may never want to stand in a lift queue again!

Best regards

The Nature Travels Team

Terms such as “ecotourism”, “sustainable tourism” and “responsible travel” are commonly heard these days, leaving many consumers confused as to what these terms really mean and perhaps suspicious of their value. In this set of FAQs, we have tried to answer some of the questions our clients sometimes ask regarding Nature Travels’ commitment to ecotourism and the world of responsible travel in general.

What does Nature Travels do?

Nature Travels is the UK specialist for responsible travel to Sweden. We work together with small-scale, locally-owned partner companies in Sweden to offer a wide range of ecotourism experiences, from wilderness canoeing to dog sledding tours to log cabin holidays. All are active members of the Swedish Ecotourism Society, an organisation committed to minimising the impact of tourism on the natural environment, and 17 are independently certified by a body comprising the Swedish Ecotourism Society, the Swedish Society for Nature Conservation and Visit Sweden, with a quality mark for their high standards of environmental practice and customer service.

What does this certification involve?

Providers must meet and maintain adherence to a strict set of criteria covering all aspects of business operations. Every company is regularly assessed and certification can be removed if a company fails to meet the required criteria. The areas covered include:

• measures to conserve the local environment in which the activities take place
• animal welfare where animals are used during the experience (e.g. on our dog sledding tours)
• waste and resource management
• safety procedures
• use of local goods and services
• control of group sizes and visitor pressure on natural areas
• staff training and customer service
• use of fuel-efficient and sustainable transport alternatives
• ongoing commitment to improving environmental performance

If would like more information about these criteria, please do not hesitate to contact us.

Why do you only sell experiences in Sweden?

Nature Travels specialises exclusively in Sweden because we know the country intimately, and can offer unrivalled advice and assistance for our clients. We are based in the UK, but all our staff are either from Sweden or have lived, worked and travelled extensively in Sweden. We have personally participated in most of the experiences we offer, and have been keen outdoor enthusiasts and conservationists all our lives. We have a very close relationship with our partners in Sweden and we aim to visit them and the areas in which the experiences run regularly.

We focus on Sweden because we know and love the country and believe that it offers a unique range of possibilities as a destination for outdoor experiences which is hard to beat, whether you choose to go hiking in the endless daylight of summer or dog sledding in the deep snows of winter. What’s more, Sweden is one of the most progressive countries in the world when it comes to the support and development of sustainable tourism. Sweden is showing admirable foresight in addressing the challenges of tourism, and its ecotourism quality label system has become an established standard on which other countries are now just beginning to base their own systems.

I’ve heard that Nature Travels offers carbon offsetting. What does that mean and why is it a good thing?

Nature Travels works in partnership with Climate Care to offer our clients the opportunity to offset the CO2 emissions produced by their journey to Sweden. An offset for a UK-Sweden return flight costs just £3.50, effectively making your trip “carbon neutral”.

Climate Care invests this money in global projects designed to reduce CO2 in the atmosphere equivalent to the amount generated by your flight. These projects also bring benefits both to wildlife and local communities, and include reforestation work, provision of fuel efficient technology, and investment in alternative energy. For more information see www.climatecare.org.

While by no means the only solution to the problems of global warming, Nature Travels sees offsetting as an important tool in the fight against climate change which, coupled with more responsible practices in energy use, can bring a significant benefit.

What does Nature Travels do to be eco-friendly in the UK?

Nature Travels makes every effort to conduct its business in an environmentally-responsible manner. We use low energy lighting and appliances throughout the office, leave nothing on standby, and recycle all paper and printer cartridges. Our old printer cartridges and used stamps go towards raising funds for environmental charities.

We aim to minimise paper usage in general by corresponding with our clients via email as much as possible. When you make a booking with us, you can complete your booking form online. If you prefer to send us a paper copy, we do also provide a version of the booking form that you can print off.

Why don’t you publish a brochure?

Every year, around 45 million holidays are taken in the UK. On average, four travel brochures are produced for each holiday sold, making a total of 180 million brochures distributed every year! If you placed these end to end, they would cover the distance from London to Sydney three times!

As an ecotourism company, we do not produce a printed brochure. Instead, we provide comprehensive information on all our tours in downloadable PDF format from our website www.naturetravels.co.uk. Simply click on the “Full Details” button on each experience page to open the full details file.

This not only reduces our paper consumption considerably, but also allows us to update our tour information whenever needed, providing the latest available information on the tours, dates and transport routes. However, if you prefer, we are happy to email details of any particular tours you may be interested in. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any queries or would like to discuss anything about our experiences and we will be pleased to answer your questions.

Why don’t you sell flights?

We do not sell the flight component of your trip, though we are more than happy to advise you on suitable connections and assist you in finding the best transport alternatives to your destination.

If you are willing to take a little extra time and make the journey part of your holiday experience, you can choose to travel to Sweden without flying, either by ferry to Norway or Denmark then onward by public transport, or by train all the way from the UK. Within Sweden, there is an excellent and affordable network of train and bus connections to take you to even the most remote areas. Some of these services (e.g. mountain buses and airport transfers) can be booked directly through us.

If you do choose to fly, there are a number of low-cost options which would not be open to you if booking a flight-inclusive holiday. Low-cost carriers such as Ryanair operate regular services to major and regional airports within Sweden, and flying in this way can significantly reduce the overall cost of your holiday. For a full list of flight connections between the UK and Sweden, see our interactive map at www.naturetravels.co.uk/holidays-in-sweden.htm. If you do decide to fly, we hope that you will opt to add the small cost of a carbon offset.

Why should I choose an ecotourism holiday or a responsible tour operator?

For the customer, choosing an ecotourism holiday is not only a positive ethical choice, but is also a reassurance that you will be visiting an area where visitor numbers are strictly controlled and the local environment is cared for, enhancing your enjoyment of your visit. Nature Travels clients may choose us because of our environmental and ethical credentials, or they may simply be attracted by our range of exciting and unique outdoor experiences offered in Sweden. Whatever the initial reason for choosing an ecotourism holiday, there are significant benefits both in terms of the environmental impact of your holiday and in your enjoyment of the holiday experience.

Best regards

The Nature Travels Team

2007 has been a wonderful year for Nature Travels and for ecotourism in Sweden. To end the year, here are a few pictures taken by the Nature Travels Team while out and about in Sweden in 2007, from the wild snow-covered mountains of Lapland to the deep forests and quiet waters of Värmland.

We are already hard at work planning adventures and new experiences for 2008. Watch these pages for updates!

Getting ready for a mass dog sledding tour from Kiruna to the IceHotel in Jukkasjärvi, Lapland.

Waiting patiently for the off.

On the trail at last!

The dogs stop for a well-earned rest.

One of the beautiful individually-sculpted rooms at the IceHotel.

Just one of the many things you can do with a reindeer skin.

Dinnertime in the teepee.

Getting ready for bed near Abisko, Lapland. Time to unpack some VERY thick sleeping bags!

Morning the next day and the last of the spring snows on the mountains.

Let’s hope it tastes better than it looks…

The stunning formation of “Lapporten”, the Sami Gate, visible almost everywhere you go in the Abisko area.

Snowshoeing is a great way to discover the winter mountains.

Driling the holes for ice fishing…

…and waiting for a bite!

Visiting the home of a traditional Sami reindeer herder…

…and meeting some of his reindeer!

Time to say goodbye.

The island of Koster in the eastern archipelago.

Watching some of Koster’s many seals.

Building the raft for a day-trip down the Klarälven.

Finished!

Relaxing on the river.

Admiring the view over the endless Värmland forests.

Sea kayaking in Sörmlands archipelago.

Stopping for a mid-morning snack.

Pitching camp for the night - a whole island to ourselves!

Watching the sun go down with a glass of wine…

Unpacking for a night in a charcoaler hut.

Goodnight!

We hope that this gives you a small taste of some of the wonderful experiences the Nature Travels Team had on their visits to Sweden this year. The winter photos were taken during a visit to Lapland in April, the location of our Reindeer Sled Safari and Experience Lapland tours. Photos of timber rafting, seal safari and sea kayaking were taken during June. The Klarälven river is the setting for both our Canoe on Klarälven and Timber Rafting on Klarälven experiences, while the forest view is taken from the area above the cabins from our Log Cabin Escape in Värmland experience. The sea kayaking photos are from our 3-day Sea Kayaking in Sörmlands Archipelago experience in June. The charcoaler hut photos were taken on a visit in September and are featured in our Elk Safari Adventure experience.

Nature Travels would like to wish you all a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, or “God Jul och Gott Nytt År”, as they say in Sweden!

Best regards

The Nature Travels Team

 

 

Dog sledding in Sweden is a unique experience, and one of our most popular winter activities. We’ve collected the answers to questions our clients commonly ask about our range of dog sledding holidays in Sweden. Whether you are an experienced musher or a novice yet to discover the thrills and adventure of dog sledding, we hope that you will find the information helpful to give you an idea of what to expect from your dog sledding holiday.

(Please note that this information below applies only to dog sledding holidays offered by Nature Travels)

How many dogs are there in a dogsled team?

Each participant will get their own sled with 4-5 Alaskan Huskies.

Do novice mushers get to actually control the sled dogs?

Yes, they do. Participants drive their own sled on all our dog sledding experiences. Full instruction is given from an experienced and knowledgeable local guide and help and advice is always on hand. Usually people become quite confident at handling the sled and the dogs within a day.

How fast does a dogsled go?

This depends on snow consistency, weather conditions, the weight carried and of course whether the sled is travelling up or downhill, but generally around 10-15km/hour.

What happens on a “typical” day on a hut-to-hut dog sledding tour?

Again, this depends on snow conditions, weather and type of terrain. On a normal dog sledding day you get up around 7.30, make a fire, heat water for the dogs, go out and feed the dogs and clear the dog toilet waste. Then you have breakfast, pack everything together, clean out the cabin, load the sleds and start the journey for the day. The time is then around 10.30. Then you drive for a couple of hours and stop and have some lunch outdoors on the way. It is a good idea good to bring sleeping/sitting mats to use to sit on in the snow. You reach the cabin around 15.00. You put the dogs on a long wire and dig a wall of snow for the dogs to protect them from the wind. After that you bring your packing into the cabin, make a fire, and melt snow for water for the dogs - you will need around 80 litres of water 2 times a day. In the evening you cook and prepare dinner together and discuss the day’s adventures.

What kind of distance would you expect to cover in a day of dog sledding?

Distance covered varies considerably depending on a number of factors. For example, on our Go Camping by Dogsled tour, you will be transporting tent equipment on top of the normal load, and so the sleds are heavier. Available daylight hours also vary of course depending on the time you wish to go (in Sweden, darkest in December getting gradually lighter until the end of the dog sledding season in late April).

Typical distance covered around 25-40km per day.

What is the accommodation like on a dog sledding tour?

For Dogsled Adventure in Jämtland and Discover Dog Sledding, accommodation during the tours is in mountain cabins and mountain lodges along the route - the same cabins that hikers use during the summer and the cross-country skiers use during the winter. The cabins have bunk beds with duvets and facilities for cooking. Some are fairly basic and you heat with wood and melt ice to get water (an important part of the wilderness experience), others are more modern and have facilities such as electricity, shower and sauna. Even though some are fairly simple, all Swedish mountain cabins are generally very comfortable and pleasant places to stay.

For our other dog sledding tours, other accommodation options are camping in traditional teepees with wood burners or tents (Go Camping by Dogsled) or staffed mountain stations with restaurant facilities and other amenities (Premium Dog Sledding Expedition).

Do I need to be particularly fit or strong to go dog sledding?

You should be in generally good health and enjoy the outdoors. Some strength is required, particularly when braking the sled when travelling downhill. This is important, as a poorly-controlled sled can overtake and injure the dogs. We have a minimum age of 13 on all our dogsled tours. A number of clients in their 50s and 60s have participated very successfully in the tours, and the most important thing is a willingness to get involved and work with the sled and dogs.

How many people will be in the group during my dog sledding tour?

For our scheduled tours, there will usually be between 3 and 8 participants (max. 6 for the camping tours). Groups of minimum 5 are able to book any of our dogsled experiences on custom dates by arrangement, and groups of much larger sizes can be accommodated.

What clothing will I need to go dog sledding?

On Nature Travels dog sledding experiences you have the option to hire warm overalls and boots for a small additional charge as optional extras.

• Winter boots- it is important that you have a pair of proper boots on, which means longer legs and warm padding. Soles on boots should not be too rigid, as this will make it slippery when standing on the sled runners.
• Jacket/trousers – it is important that your clothes are warm, preferably windproof - winter clothing, thick jacket and thermal trousers. It is good to have a hood on the jacket.
• Hat and gloves - bring a hat and it is good to have a hood on your jacket. Mittens are warmer than gloves where the fingers are separated. Also bring a pair of gloves with fingers, as these are useful for such activities as harnessing the dogs.
• Protection against wind - bring ski glasses and preferably a scarf to tie in front of your face.

For your clothing, we recommend you use the layer principle:
• Closest to your body an inner layer that transports humidity away from the body.
• Then a second layer that keeps in the warmth your body generates and absorbs the humidity from the inner layer.
• The outer layer should protect you from weather and wind and be wind- and waterproof.

Do not use cotton on the inner layers closest to your body, as cotton collects the humidity your body generates. The clothing gets heavy and chills you. Better materials to use are synthetics, wool etc.

Where is the best place to go dog sledding?

Sweden, of course! All our dog sledding experiences take place in the mountains of Jämtland in western Sweden, near the Norwegian border. Many of our tours run in Vålådalen Nature Reserve, an area of 1,175 square kilometres and one of the southernmost alpine landscapes in the country with several peaks reaching 1500 to 1600 metres above numerous traces of the Ice Age. Between the mountains are native forests with ancient pines, and the reserve is very rich flora and fauna, with arctic fox, gyrfalcon, golden eagle and snowy owl among the species of particular interest. This area also has a snowmobile restriction, ensuring there is nothing to disturb your enjoyment of the wilderness.

Access to the area from the UK is straightforward. You can choose to travel either via Trondheim in Norway or alternatively, many of our clients travel to Stockholm, enjoy a few days in the city and then take a night train up into the mountains.

What is the best time of year to go dog sledding in Sweden?

This depends very much on personal taste and what you are looking for from your dog sledding holiday. Accommodation in tents or teepees is only possible when the days become warmer, around April. Generally snow conditions in the Jämtland region are suitable from mid-December onwards. We offer no scheduled tours in January, as the weather tends to be at its most challenging during this time, though we are happy to arrange custom tours at this time of year.

If you have any other questions about dog sledding that you would like us to see answered here in our FAQs, please email your suggestions to admin@naturetravels.co.uk.

Happy mushing!!

Best regards

The Nature Travels Team

Read our “musher’s diary” from the February 2008 Dogsled Adventure in Jämtland here.

Browse our full range of dog sledding holidays in Sweden:

Dogsled Adventure in Jämtland
Lead your own dogsled team on a voyage of discovery into the white wilderness
Dates/Period: 15.12-21.12.07, 16.02–22.02.08, 15.03–21.03.08, 22.03–28.03.08, 29.03–04.04.08, 05.04–11.04.08
Groups of min.3 can book this experience on other dates by arrangement.
7 days from £878 per person.

Discover Dog Sledding
A weekend dog sledding experience in the heart of the Jämtland mountains
Dates/Period: Friday 22/02 - Monday 25/02/08, Friday 07/03 - Monday 11/03/08
Groups of min.3 can book this experience on other dates by arrangement.
4 days from £428 per person.

Go Camping by Dogsled
A unique camping experience in the deep snow of the Swedish mountains - in the company of your own dog team!
Dates/Period: 12.04-18.04.08
Groups of min.3 can book this experience on other dates by arrangement.
7 days from £840 per person.

Ice-fishing and Dog Sledding in Jämtland
Drive your own Alaskan Husky dogsled team and fish in the frozen lake waters of the Swedish mountains
Dates/Period: 26.04-02.05.08
Groups of min.3 can book this experience on other dates by arrangement.
7 days from £840/person

Premium Dog Sledding Expedition
Eat and sleep well on this premium dog sledding tour on both sides of the Swedish/Norwegian border
Dates/Period: 19.04- 25.04.08
Groups of min.3 can book this experience on other dates by arrangement.
7 days from £1145 per person.

Think “outside the box” when planning your presents this year…

Take a moment to think back to last Christmas - the family gathering, the wine and good food….and the presents you received. Of these, no doubt some have remained close to your heart, treasured possessions that you will use and cherish for years to come, gifts given with love and thought and received with gratitude. But, almost certainly, among the piles of packages that peeked promisingly from beneath the Christmas tree were a reasonable number that you would have preferred never to receive, or whose appeal faded quickly after the first flush of excitement.

The same is probably true of the gifts you gave. Did the £90 Roboraptor hold the attention of the children as long as you’d hoped? Did you imagine that the Playstation 2 you bought would now be lying forgotten and unloved at the back of the cupboard while its new £350 cousin takes centre stage? Did your brother ever use that 50-piece screwdriver set you had hoped would revolutionise his DIY? Or perhaps behind the polite smiles of your partner as you handed over a well-intended piece of jewellery they were secretly praying you had kept the receipt?

Estimates for Christmas spending in the UK vary, but all the statistics paint a similar story. In 1996, a survey by debit card company Switch found that, on average, every person in Britain spent a staggering £710 at Christmas. By 1998 this had risen to £862. In 2002 the Family Welfare Association found that a family on an average income spent £564 on food, drink and decorations for Christmas Day alone.

Around 15 hours is spent on Christmas shopping and an extra two hours standing in queues at the till. A quarter of Britons take out loans to be able to afford the excesses of Christmas, while 40% admit that Christmas shopping causes them to feel stressed. Each year, Christmas in the UK generates over three million tonnes of waste.

What’s the alternative?

Buy memories – not stuff! An outdoor holiday in Sweden is not only a great experience in itself, but will leave you with fond memories for years to come, long after the joys of more material gifts have faded.

All our experiences in Sweden are carefully managed to minimise their environmental impact. Waste is kept to a minimum and recycled wherever possible. Where transport is required, fuel-efficient alternatives are favoured. If you choose to fly to Sweden, a small additional premium of £3.50 will offset the carbon emissions produced by your flight. Isn’t that a better alternative to acres of discarded packaging and a mound of unwanted presents?

What about the costs?

Let’s make a few comparisons:

A new 60GB Playstation 3 plus Guitar Hero III game currently costs around £420. So what could you do for a similar sum in Sweden?

Photo: Anders Dahlin Naturfoto

£342: A family of four (2 adults and 2 children under 16) could spend a week at an award-winning mountain station near the Norwegian border, with a wealth of activities available in the surrounding area from cross-country skiing to spa treatments.

Photo: Staffan Widstrand

£348: A family of four (2 adults and 2 children under 16) could take a 7-day wilderness canoeing trip along the beautiful slow-flowing Svartälven river camping wild along the way.

£401: A family of 6 could spend a week in the remote forests of Värmland in a traditional Swedish log cabin. The area is ideal for hiking, canoeing and fishing, and cabin rental includes use of a boat with environmentally-friendly 4-stroke engine to explore the surrounding lakes.

£414: A family of four (2 adults and 2 children aged 3-14) could spend three nights deep in the Swedish forest on our Winter Wonderland on a Forest Farm experience.

Or why not take your partner away for a romantic break…?

£229: Go wild in the wilderness with the one you love on a romantic log cabin break for two in the forests of Bergslagen. And you’ll still have £191 left over (why not add an elk safari or some extra nights?).

£376: Treat yourself and your partner on a weekend at our Country Manor multi-activity Getaway, with accommodation in two-room mini-suites, first-class cuisine and free use of kayaks, boats and cycles when you want to go exploring!

And that’s just for the price of one present!

How do I give a Nature Travels experience as a gift?

There are a number of options:

• If you are planning a trip with your partner or family, why not contact us and arrange the trip in secret as a surprise?
• Nature Travels experiences make ideal gifts for weddings or landmark birthdays. We are happy to produce a gift certificate for any of our experiences and let the recipients choose when they would like to travel.
• We also offer vouchers which can be redeemed against any of our experiences – perfect if you are making a contribution towards a trip or if you unsure exactly what kind of experience would be most suitable.

Think “outside the box” this Christmas – the experience will last a lifetime.

Best regards and Merry Christmas (or “God Jul”, as they say in Sweden!)

The Nature Travels Team

Is it an elk? Is it a moose? If you’re in Sweden, the answer is “BOTH”! The iconic, majestic forest dweller Alces alces is known as a moose in North America (actually the sub-species Alces alces americana) and an elk in Europe. The word elk, like the Swedish word älg (pronounced /elj/), is taken from the Latin alces. To make matters even more confusing, elk in North America is used for an entirely different animal - a kind of deer, Cervus elaphus, otherwise known as a Wapiti, which looks like this:

The European elk (or moose), on the other hand, looks like this:

Elk are widely distributed throughout Sweden, from the giants inhabiting the wilderness of the mighty Sarek National Park in Lapland (hunting restrictions have meant that large bulls have been better able to survive and reproduce) down to the lower regions of this vast country, but the forests of Bergslagen are a particularly wonderful area to see elk in Sweden. As home to the traditional royal hunting grounds, hunting pressure on the elk in this area is lower than in some other parts of Sweden, and as a result the elk population far outnumbers the human population!

Elk may be fairly common and widespread in Sweden, but that doesn’t mean they are easy to see, especially at close range. Elk are shy creatures, and will retreat into the cover of the deep forest at the slightest disturbance, loping off with a slow-motion gait that uncannily resembles a giraffe running on the savannah. While it is not unusual for a commuter returning from a day’s work in Stockholm to see an elk standing motionless on the edge of a field in the setting sun, similarly a hunter may wait a week in a hide in the woods and not see a single elk!

During a recent visit to Sweden, the Nature Travels team had the opportunity to take part in an evening elk safari with local elk expert Marcus, who has been running elk safaris in the Bergslagen area for a number of years now and has never once returned home without a sighting. Hundreds of nights spent patrolling the forests, hills and dirt tracks of Bergslagen have given him an in-depth knowledge of the best places to find these beautiful animals, and all elk safaris now come with an “elk guarantee” – though Marcus says he still worries that one night they might all be hiding!

Due to time pressure we took the “express” version of the elk safari – a whistle-stop tour of some of the best local elk-watching spots – but nevertheless managed to see 9 elk in just over 30 minutes, including some wonderful close-up views of mother and calf and a large male with full antlers. The full safari takes a number of hours, and combines an exploration of the local forests on foot with observation from the minibus (as in Africa, vehicles can sometimes be less threatening to wild animals than a human presence on foot). Typically in recent tours it has been possible recently to see at least 30 animals in one evening, including some very close encounters indeed. The trick to getting close, says Marcus, is to crouch down in the grass until the elk bends its head to graze, then creep slowly forward. As the animal looks up, crouch down again and remain still, then creep forward again as it returns to graze. After a few minutes of patience and quiet, you can get closer than you would believe possible!

Elk safaris are available between May and September and include an atmospheric night in an authentic charcoaler hut! For further details see our Elk Safari Adventure.

As well as being home to thousands of elk, two of Sweden’s most exciting, most threatened, and most controversial predators roam the vast forests of Bergslagen – the wolf and the lynx. Reconciling the interests and opinions of conservationists, farmers, hunters, local people and politicians is never an easy task, and the presence of large predators in Sweden has always been a sensitive issue. But Sweden is tackling this question with typical foresight, compassion and practical skill. The research station at Grimsö, deep in the Bergslagen forests, works with radio tracking on local predator populations in an attempt to learn more about their movements and behaviour and develop management plans for their conservation and future survival, while at the same time working hard to maintain the trust and goodwill of those who may feel less than positive about the presence of wolves and lynx in the area. A recent initiative has been the introduction of special fencing, similar to an electric fence but with strands much closer to the ground, which has proved extremely effective in reducing livestock deaths due to lynx and wolves.

Photo: Andrea Barghi

Having grown from just two individuals, the Swedish wolf population is in something of a genetic crisis. It is estimated that to keep the population genetically viable, new blood needs to be introduced at least every 15 years or so. Recently, there was great excitement when a new wolf appeared in the Dalarna area. Analysis of dung has identified this wolf as being part of the Finnish-Russian population, and it represents the first new blood for the local wolf population since the 1980s. Worryingly, there has been some conflict between this animal and local livestock populations, and its future remains uncertain, but with luck the animal may be able to breed with local wolves and provide a much-needed boost to the gene pool of the Swedish wolf population.

Since 2006, Marcus has been working together with the researchers at Grimsö to offer evenings of wolf tracking and wolf howling. To find out more about this spine-tingling adventure, see our Howling with Wolves experience.

Bergslagen is a fascinating area for wildlife watching, and the images of elk frozen in the torchlight are still fresh in our memories – we’ll make sure we plan a little more time for elk watching on our next visit!

Best regards

The Nature Travels Team

The Rovdjursföreningen (The Predator Society) in Sweden works for the interests of all large predators in Sweden: the brown bear, the wolf, the lynx, the wolverine, and, of course, humans, with a very informative website that is unfortunately only currently available in Swedish. However, for non-Swedish speakers they also have a wonderful collection of images – see http://www.de5stora.se/galleri/galleriDe5/ and click on “Öppna galleriet”. In the UK, Tooth and Claw operate on similar principles – see http://www.toothandclaw.org.uk/.